Permanently moved to Oahu Jan. '05 from Baltimore city (25 years). Got a board in July 2005 and surf every day possible ever since... only lost about 4 months from combo of broken arm and massive sewage spill affecting the whole island in Spring 2006.
But living here, it's not too hard to find your way into some little barrels within your first year or two learning to surf if you show some dedication.
Contrary to some claims, many local surfers can be very accomodating and friendly if you show some aloha, respect, and surf rain/shine/big/small/off-on-sideshore conditions. In fact, nearly all bad vibes and aggro-BS I've witnessed have been from haole transplants that have surfed a given spot for a couple years and think they own the place.
My Gear //
Favorite Brands: Boo...hiss... big surfwear brands. Not many "boardshort companies" seem able to make shorts that don't come unseamed within 2-3 months of regular surfing.
Fairly short rides into a small channel; waves break into the left from Concessions making for frequent games of chicken. When its big a short left either mushes out or turns into an impossible closeout after one or two turns. Takes at least shoulder-head high SW to really start working. But around double overhead and 17-18 second periods, this wave can really throw some stand-up barrels. Big Rights
